Abeokuta, a southwestern city known as the Capital of Adire, is home to nearly 2,000 merchants and producers, according to government data. Somodale Akomo Amosa, 86, president of the city's sprawling adire market, has witnessed the encroachment of Chinese competition over the past decade. "Her income has decreased over the years. She has only sold five fabrics in 10 days," one of Amosa's daughters lamented.
The traditional adire fabric is created using the tie-dye technique, as explained by Tunde M. Akinwumi, a retired professor of African textile design and author of a book on adire. The process involves knotting and folding the fabric by hand before dyeing it to achieve unique colour gradients and shapes.
Despite the challenges posed by Chinese competition and the economic crisis, market chief Amosa remains steadfast in her commitment to preserving the tradition and originality of adire production. She rejects the notion of Nigerian producers adopting machines to reduce costs, as the Chinese do, arguing that it "would harm the tradition and originality of the products."
In the heart of Balogun market in Lagos, amidst the pounding rain, Ajoke meticulously selects an adire fabric, a tie-dye textile traditionally associated with the Yoruba people, one of Nigeria's majority ethnic groups. The vibrant cloth, commonly used for traditional attire worn during special occasions, weddings, and parties, holds a special place in Nigerian culture.
As Ajoke carefully examines the fabrics, distinguishing between traditional Nigerian cotton and polyester versions imported from China, the stark price difference becomes apparent. A Chinese-made fabric with purple patterns catches her eye, priced at just 3,300 naira (around $2.20), half the cost of a locally produced adire.
With Nigeria grappling with high inflation, leaving many struggling to make ends meet, the allure of cheaper Chinese counterfeit adire products has grown. However, these imported textiles pose a significant challenge to Nigeria's long-established clothing industry, as voiced by producers and traders.
The impact of the economic climate is felt throughout the market, with some traders like Christiana Morenikeji Ilesanmi feeling compelled to offer the cheaper Chinese-made adire. "You are selling more Chinese-made adire, because it's cheaper. We feel bad," the 56-year-old admitted, while noting that "everybody is buying it."
The effects of the competition and economic crisis extend beyond the market, reaching the main adire production centre in Abeokuta. A 55-year-old producer observed a decline in visitors ordering directly from the centre, stating, "Before, lots of people came here to order dresses for weddings or special occasions, but it's not like that now."
In an effort to support the industry, the Nigerian presidency announced in March the allocation of store spaces at reduced rates to 400 traders in Abeokuta's adire market, as part of a national business aid project. Former head of state Olusegun Obasanjo has also called for authorities to halt the import of counterfeit Chinese adire, although no action has been taken thus far.
Initiatives such as the launch of a website in 2020 by the national and state government in Ogun, where Abeokuta is located, aim to promote the sale of "original and top-of-the-class" adire both domestically and internationally.
For market president Amosa, preserving the legacy of adire is a matter of pride and tradition. "Adire production is a family inheritance to us, others have come to learn it from us," she affirmed. "It is our craft, it is my craft."
As Nigeria navigates the challenges posed by Chinese counterfeits and economic turmoil, the resilience and determination of adire producers and traders shine through, as they strive to safeguard their cherished craft for generations to come.